Category: Vegetable Gardening

Herbs are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow in containers. A few pots on a patio, balcony or sunny windowsill can supply fresh basil, parsley, mint and thyme all season, often for less than the cost of buying cut herbs at the store. Containers also let you keep herbs right by the kitchen door and move them to follow the sun.

This guide covers which herbs grow best in pots, how to set them up and how to keep them productive.

Best Herbs for Containers

Easy Annuals and Biennials

• Basil: Loves heat and sun. Pinch tips regularly to keep it bushy.
• Parsley: Tolerates some shade and cooler weather. Flat-leaf and curly types both grow well in pots.
• Cilantro: Prefers cool weather and tends to bolt (flower) in heat. Sow in succession.
• Dill: Tall but grows well in deeper pots.
• Chervil: Prefers cool, partially shaded spots.

Hardy Perennials

• Chives: Very easy, tolerant of many conditions and often come back each year.
• Thyme: Likes sun and well-drained soil; do not overwater.
• Oregano: Sun-loving and easy, spreads to fill a pot.
• Sage: Prefers sun and drier soil.
• Mint: Vigorous and spreads aggressively in the ground, which makes containers ideal for it.

Tender Perennials

• Rosemary: Needs sun and excellent drainage. In cold climates, it is often brought indoors or treated as an annual.
• Lemongrass: Grows well in large pots in warm weather.
• Bay laurel: A slow-growing shrub that does well in containers and can be moved indoors in cold areas.

Choosing Containers

Size

Bigger pots hold more soil and moisture, so they dry out less quickly. As a general guide:

• Small herbs (thyme, chives): pots around 6 to 8 inches wide
• Medium herbs (basil, parsley, oregano): around 8 to 12 inches
• Large herbs (rosemary, sage, lemongrass, bay): 12 inches or more

You can also combine several herbs in a larger container or window box if they share similar needs.

Drainage

Every container needs drainage holes. Herbs sitting in waterlogged soil can develop root rot.

Material

Material	Pros	Cons
Terracotta	Breathable, good for herbs that like dry soil	Dries out quickly, heavier, can crack in freezing weather
Plastic	Lightweight, holds moisture, inexpensive	Less breathable
Glazed ceramic	Attractive, holds moisture	Heavy, can be costly
Fabric grow bags	Good drainage and air flow	Dry quickly
Self-watering pots	Helpful for thirsty herbs	Can keep Mediterranean herbs too wet

Grouping by Water Needs

• Drier conditions: Rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano
• More moisture: Basil, parsley, cilantro, mint, chives

Plant herbs with similar needs together.

Potting Mix

Use a quality potting mix designed for containers rather than garden soil, which compacts in pots. For Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and thyme, some gardeners add extra perlite or coarse sand for faster drainage.

Sunlight

Most herbs need at least six hours of direct sun for best growth and flavor. Basil, rosemary, thyme, oregano and sage especially like full sun. Parsley, chives, cilantro and mint tolerate partial shade.

Growing Herbs Indoors

A bright, south- or west-facing window is best indoors. In darker homes or during winter, a small grow light can help herbs stay compact and productive.

Planting

1. Fill the container with moistened potting mix, leaving room at the top for watering.
2. Plant transplants at the same depth they were growing in their nursery pots.
3. Sow seeds at the depth on the packet. Herbs like basil, cilantro and dill grow easily from seed. See starting seeds indoors.
4. Water gently to settle the soil.

Some herbs, such as rosemary, thyme and oregano, can be slow from seed, so many gardeners buy transplants.

Watering

Container herbs dry out faster than garden plants, especially in hot, windy weather.

• Check soil moisture by pushing a finger an inch or two into the soil.
• Water thoroughly when the top layer is dry, until water runs out the bottom.
• Let Mediterranean herbs dry out more between waterings.
• Do not let pots sit in water. Empty saucers after watering.
• In hot weather, some containers may need water every day.

Feeding

Potting mixes contain limited nutrients that wash out with watering. Many herbs benefit from occasional feeding with a balanced, diluted fertilizer or compost, following label directions. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can produce lots of leaves with less flavor.

Harvesting

Regular harvesting keeps many herbs bushy and productive.

• Basil: Pinch stems just above a pair of leaves. Remove flower buds to prolong leaf production.
• Parsley and cilantro: Cut outer stems at the base, letting inner stems keep growing.
• Chives: Cut leaves an inch or two above the soil.
• Thyme, oregano and rosemary: Snip sprigs, leaving plenty of green growth. Avoid cutting into old, bare wood.
• Mint: Cut stems regularly to keep plants compact.

A general rule is to avoid removing more than about a third of the plant at once.

Common Problems

Problem	Likely cause	Fix
Leggy, pale growth	Not enough light	Move to a sunnier spot or add grow light
Yellowing leaves	Overwatering or poor drainage	Water less; check drainage holes
Wilting in heat	Underwatering or small pot	Water more often or use a larger pot
Bolting (flowering early)	Heat or day length	Harvest often; sow cilantro and dill in succession
Aphids	Common on soft growth	Spray off with water; check undersides of leaves

Overwintering Herbs

• Hardy perennials like chives, thyme, oregano and mint can often stay outdoors in many climates, but containers are more exposed to cold than garden soil. Group pots in a sheltered spot, wrap them or move them to an unheated garage.
• Tender herbs like rosemary, lemongrass and bay can be moved indoors to a bright window in cold climates.
• Annual herbs like basil can be harvested heavily before frost or started from new seed indoors.

See our guide to preparing your garden for winter.

Ideas for Small Spaces

• Window boxes for a mix of compact herbs
• Vertical planters or wall pockets on balconies
• Tiered plant stands to maximize sun
• Hanging baskets for trailing thyme or oregano
• A kitchen windowsill with three or four favorite herbs

Frequently Asked Questions

Which herb is easiest for beginners?

Chives, mint, parsley and basil are among the easiest to grow in containers.

Can I grow herbs in the same pot?

Yes, if they have similar needs. Combine drought-tolerant Mediterranean herbs together and keep moisture lovers separate. Grow mint alone because it spreads aggressively.

Why is my basil turning black?

Basil is sensitive to cold. Temperatures that are too cool can damage leaves. Keep basil in warm conditions and avoid placing it outdoors too early.

How often should I water container herbs?

It depends on pot size, weather and the herb. Check soil moisture daily in hot weather and water when the top inch or so is dry.

Can I grow herbs indoors all year?

Many herbs can grow indoors with enough light. A sunny window or grow light helps keep them healthy.

The Bottom Line

Herbs are perfect for containers. Choose pots with drainage, use a quality potting mix, give them plenty of sun, group by water needs and harvest often. A few pots by the kitchen door can supply fresh flavor all season long.

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Editorial note: Backyard Bloomer is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

Starting seeds indoors gives you a head start on the growing season, a much wider choice of varieties than garden centers offer and the satisfaction of growing plants from the very beginning. It can also save money if you grow many plants.

Seed starting is not complicated, but a few details make the difference between strong, stocky seedlings and weak, leggy ones. This guide walks through the process step by step.

Which Seeds to Start Indoors

Some crops benefit from an indoor start, while others do better sown directly in the garden.

Good Candidates for Starting Indoors

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplant
• Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kale
• Many herbs, such as basil and parsley
• Onions and leeks
• Many annual flowers

Usually Better Sown Directly

• Root vegetables such as carrots, radishes and beets, which often dislike transplanting
• Beans and peas, which grow quickly
• Corn
• Squash, cucumbers and melons can be started indoors but grow fast and resent root disturbance, so many gardeners direct sow them or start them only a few weeks early in biodegradable pots

Step 1: Figure Out Timing

Seed packets usually say how many weeks before the last frost to start seeds indoors. Count back from your area’s average last frost date. Your local cooperative extension service publishes regional planting calendars.

Common General Timing

• Onions and leeks: Often started early, around 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost
• Peppers and eggplant: Often around 8 to 10 weeks before
• Tomatoes: Often around 6 to 8 weeks before
• Brassicas: Often around 4 to 6 weeks before transplanting
• Squash and cucumbers: Often only 2 to 4 weeks before

Always follow the specific packet directions.

Starting Too Early

Seedlings started too early can outgrow their containers and become root-bound or leggy before it is warm enough to plant them outside.

Step 2: Gather Supplies

Containers

• Seed trays with cells
• Small pots
• Soil blocks
• Recycled containers such as yogurt cups, cleaned and with drainage holes poked in the bottom

All containers need drainage. Clean reused containers with soapy water before use.

Seed-Starting Mix

Use a fine, sterile seed-starting mix rather than garden soil. Garden soil can compact in containers and may contain disease organisms. Seed-starting mixes are light and drain well.

Light

A sunny windowsill is often not enough, especially in late winter. Seedlings that do not get enough light become tall, pale and floppy. Many gardeners use simple LED or fluorescent shop lights or grow lights hung a few inches above the seedlings.

Other Helpful Supplies

• Labels and a waterproof marker
• A spray bottle or watering can with a gentle rose
• Humidity domes or plastic wrap
• A seedling heat mat for warmth-loving crops
• A small fan for air movement
• A timer for lights

Step 3: Sow the Seeds

1. Moisten the mix before filling containers. It should be damp, not dripping.
2. Fill containers and gently firm the surface.
3. Sow seeds at the depth listed on the packet. A common rule of thumb is about two to three times the seed’s width. Some seeds need light to germinate and should be pressed onto the surface; the packet will say.
4. Sow two or three seeds per cell if germination may be uneven, then thin later.
5. Label everything with the variety and date.
6. Cover with a humidity dome or plastic wrap to keep moisture in until seeds sprout.

Step 4: Provide Warmth for Germination

Many seeds germinate best in warm soil. Tomatoes and peppers especially benefit from a heat mat. Lettuce and some other cool-season crops germinate at cooler temperatures. Check the packet.

Remove humidity domes as soon as seedlings emerge to reduce the risk of disease.

Step 5: Give Seedlings Plenty of Light

Once seedlings appear, they need strong light right away.

• Keep lights a few inches above the seedlings and raise them as plants grow, following the light manufacturer’s guidance.
• Many gardeners run lights for about 14 to 16 hours a day using a timer.
• If using a window, rotate trays daily so seedlings do not lean.

Step 6: Water Carefully

• Keep the mix evenly moist, not soggy.
• Watering from below, by placing trays in a shallow pan of water for a short time, helps avoid disturbing seeds and keeps leaves dry.
• Empty excess water so containers do not sit in it.

Preventing Damping Off

Damping off is a fungal problem that causes seedlings to suddenly collapse at the soil line. To reduce the risk:

• Use clean containers and fresh seed-starting mix
• Avoid overwatering
• Remove humidity domes after germination
• Provide air movement with a small fan on a low setting

Step 7: Thin the Seedlings

When seedlings develop their first true leaves (the leaves that appear after the initial seed leaves), thin to one plant per cell. Snip extra seedlings at the soil line with scissors rather than pulling, which can damage roots of the keeper.

Step 8: Feed and Pot Up

Seed-starting mixes contain few nutrients. Once seedlings have true leaves, many gardeners begin feeding with a diluted fertilizer, following label directions.

If seedlings outgrow their cells before it is time to plant outdoors, move them to larger pots. Tomatoes can be planted deeper when potting up, burying part of the stem.

Step 9: Harden Off

Seedlings grown indoors are not used to sun, wind and temperature swings. Hardening off gradually prepares them:

1. Start with an hour or two outdoors in a sheltered, shady spot.
2. Gradually increase time outdoors and sun exposure over about a week to ten days.
3. Bring plants in if frost or very cold weather is expected.
4. Water as needed, since outdoor conditions dry containers quickly.

Step 10: Transplant

Transplant on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon to reduce stress. Water well before and after planting. For warm-season crops, wait until after the last frost and until soil has warmed.

See our raised bed plans for layout ideas and tomato growing mistakes to give your tomatoes a strong start.

Troubleshooting

Problem	Likely cause	Fix
Tall, leggy seedlings	Not enough light	Lower lights or add stronger light
Seeds did not sprout	Too cold, too dry, too deep or old seeds	Check temperature, moisture and packet depth
Seedlings collapse at soil line	Damping off	Reduce watering, improve airflow, use clean supplies
Yellowing leaves	Lack of nutrients or overwatering	Feed lightly, adjust watering
White fuzz on soil	Too wet, poor airflow	Let surface dry slightly, add a fan

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I start seeds on a windowsill?

You can, but seedlings may get leggy without enough light. A south-facing window in a sunny climate works better than most. Supplemental lights help a lot.

Do I need a heat mat?

Not always. Heat mats help warmth-loving crops germinate faster. Cool-season crops usually do not need them.

How long are seeds viable?

It varies by crop and storage conditions. Store seeds in a cool, dry place. Do a germination test with a few seeds on a damp paper towel if you are unsure.

Can I reuse seed-starting mix?

It is best to use fresh mix to reduce disease risk. Old mix can be added to the compost pile.

When should I move seedlings outdoors?

After hardening off, and after your last frost date for warm-season crops. Cool-season crops can often go out a few weeks earlier.

The Bottom Line

Starting seeds indoors is easy with the right timing, a clean seed-starting mix, strong light, careful watering and gradual hardening off. Start with a few easy crops like tomatoes, basil and lettuce, take notes on what works and expand next year.

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Editorial note: Backyard Bloomer is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

Tomatoes are one of the most popular plants in home gardens and one of the most rewarding. They are also prone to a handful of common problems that can reduce harvests or ruin fruit. The good news is that most of these problems trace back to a few avoidable mistakes.

This guide covers the most common tomato growing mistakes and how to fix or prevent each one.

Mistake 1: Planting Too Early

Tomatoes are warm-season plants and are damaged by frost. Cold soil and nights also slow their growth. Planting too early often leads to stunted plants that take weeks to recover.

What to Do Instead

• Wait until after your area’s average last frost date.
• Many gardeners wait until nighttime temperatures stay reliably above about 50°F.
• Harden off transplants by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over about a week.
• If you plant early, protect plants with row covers or wall-of-water protectors.

Mistake 2: Not Enough Sun

Tomatoes need full sun to produce well. Most sources recommend at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day. In too much shade, plants become leggy and produce few fruits.

What to Do Instead

• Plant in the sunniest spot available.
• If your yard is shady, try containers you can move into sun, or choose smaller cherry varieties, which may perform better in partial sun.

Mistake 3: Planting Too Close Together

Crowded plants compete for light, water and nutrients, and poor air circulation encourages disease.

What to Do Instead

• Follow spacing on the seed packet or plant tag. Indeterminate varieties generally need more space than determinate ones.
• Leave room for air to move between plants.
• In raised beds, plan where tomatoes go before planting other crops. See our raised bed plans.

Mistake 4: Planting Too Shallow

Tomato stems can grow roots along the buried portion. Many gardeners plant transplants deeper than they were in their pots to grow a stronger root system.

What to Do Instead

• Remove lower leaves and bury part of the stem, leaving the top set of leaves above ground.
• Alternatively, dig a shallow trench and lay the stem sideways, gently bending the top upward.

Mistake 5: Inconsistent Watering

Uneven watering, such as letting soil dry out and then soaking it, is linked to problems like blossom end rot and fruit cracking.

What to Do Instead

• Water deeply and consistently, aiming to keep soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.
• Water at the base of plants rather than on the leaves.
• Use mulch to keep soil moisture steady.
• Consider drip irrigation or soaker hoses.

Mistake 6: Ignoring Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot appears as a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of fruits. It is associated with calcium not reaching developing fruit, often because of uneven watering rather than a lack of calcium in the soil.

What to Do Instead

• Keep watering consistent.
• Mulch to reduce moisture swings.
• Test your soil before adding calcium. Many soils already have enough. See how to test and improve garden soil.
• Remove affected fruit. Later fruit often develops normally once watering evens out.

Mistake 7: Over-Fertilizing With Nitrogen

Too much nitrogen can produce lush leaves but fewer flowers and fruits.

What to Do Instead

• Start with compost and a soil test.
• Use a fertilizer formulated for tomatoes or vegetables and follow the label.
• Avoid heavy nitrogen feeding once plants begin flowering.

Mistake 8: Not Supporting Plants Early

Tomatoes, especially indeterminate varieties, can grow large and heavy. Supports added late can damage roots and stems.

What to Do Instead

• Install cages, stakes or trellises at planting time.
• Choose sturdy, tall cages for large varieties. Many small store-bought cages are too short for indeterminate plants.
• Tie stems loosely with soft ties as they grow.

Mistake 9: Choosing the Wrong Variety

Not every tomato suits every garden.

What to Do Instead

• Determinate varieties grow to a set size and ripen fruit over a shorter period. They are often good for containers and canning.
• Indeterminate varieties keep growing and producing until frost. They need more space and support.
• Look for disease-resistant varieties. Codes on seed packets or tags, such as V, F and N, indicate resistance to certain diseases or pests.
• In short-season areas, choose varieties with fewer days to maturity.

Mistake 10: Ignoring Disease Prevention

Fungal diseases like early blight and septoria leaf spot are common in many regions, especially in humid weather.

What to Do Instead

• Space plants for airflow.
• Water at the base and avoid wetting leaves.
• Mulch to reduce soil splashing onto lower leaves.
• Remove lower leaves that touch the soil.
• Remove and dispose of badly infected leaves. Many gardeners avoid composting diseased material in home piles.
• Rotate tomatoes and related crops (peppers, eggplant, potatoes) to a different spot each year when possible.
• Contact your local cooperative extension service to identify specific diseases.

Mistake 11: Over-Pruning or Never Pruning

Pruning is a matter of preference and variety. Removing all foliage can expose fruit to sunscald, while never pruning large indeterminate plants can lead to a tangled mass.

What to Do Instead

• Determinate varieties usually need little pruning.
• For indeterminate varieties, many gardeners remove some suckers (shoots between the main stem and branches) to manage size.
• Keep enough leaves to shade fruit.

Mistake 12: Harvesting at the Wrong Time

Leaving fully ripe fruit on the vine can lead to cracking, pests and overripe tomatoes.

What to Do Instead

• Harvest when fruit has reached full color for the variety and gives slightly to gentle pressure.
• In very hot weather or before heavy rain, some gardeners pick tomatoes as they begin to color and let them finish ripening indoors at room temperature.
• Store ripe tomatoes at room temperature for the best flavor.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my tomato flowers falling off?

Blossom drop is often associated with temperatures that are too hot or too cold, as well as stress from drought or excess nitrogen. It often resolves when conditions improve.

Why are my tomatoes cracking?

Cracking is commonly associated with sudden changes in water, such as heavy rain after dry weather. Consistent watering and mulch can help.

How often should I water tomatoes?

It depends on weather, soil and container size. Check soil moisture a couple of inches down and water when it starts to dry. Containers often need daily watering in hot weather.

Should I remove yellow leaves?

Yellowing lower leaves are common as plants age. Removing them can improve airflow, but persistent yellowing may indicate disease or nutrient problems.

Can I grow tomatoes in containers?

Yes. Choose large containers, a quality potting mix and compact varieties, and water often.

The Bottom Line

Most tomato problems come from planting too early, crowding, uneven watering, too much nitrogen, weak support and poor disease prevention. Give your plants full sun, steady moisture, mulch, strong supports and good airflow, and choose varieties that suit your space and climate. Your harvest will thank you.

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Editorial note: Backyard Bloomer is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.